
by Cosmo Lee
He is the only chef whose reviews say “Hail Satan” and “Hell Awaits”. He has catered to a virtual who’s who of the metal world: Testament, Exodus, Deicide, Behemoth, In Flames - the list goes on and on. He’s handy with a knife, makes a mean Thai curry and has more tattoos than you. He’s the Metal Chef.
Metal Chef was born in 2001 when Adrian Merrill quit his job as a pastry chef in Toronto to go freelance. However, work was scarce in Toronto, due in part to the difficulties bands encounter in entering Canada. So Metal Chef moved to the Bay Area in 2003 and became the in-house chef for legendary clubs Pound SF and Bottom of the Hill.
There, he became renowned for not only his cuisine but also his hospitality. Go to a Bay Area metal show and Metal Chef is likely to be there, greeting people by throwing the goat (\m/\m/) the way people give hugs. Bands take him on tour; bartenders refuse his money – such is the power of good food.
Now Metal Chef caters for concerts and special events such as Billy Steel’s 107.7 Metal Zone radio show. Recently, Metal Chef invited me to his house for dinner - and one doesn’t say no to a metalhead with a knife. One rainy Sunday afternoon, my friends and I drove through the winding roads of Marin Peninsula and knocked on Metal Chef’s door.
After introductions and a tour of his kitchen, Metal Chef cranked up some old-school metal and seated us at a skull-and-bones tablecloth. As a dog named Sabbath and a cat named Judas Priest made the rounds, we feasted upon the following menu:
- Roasted butternut squash soup with vanilla yogurt
- Caramelized onion and roasted garlic bruschetta on fresh herb focaccia
- Thai banana-mint coconut curry on cinnamon-jasmine rice
- Bourbon chocolate ganache-dipped Granny Smith apples
I’m a music reviewer, not a food critic – but I can say that dinner ruled. The soup was tasty, the focaccia was fluffy, and the curry was refreshingly spicy. Dessert was chocolate-dipped apple squares, which disappeared in seconds. Afterwards, Metal Chef took off his chef’s jacket, let his hair down, and hung out with his guests. He even took the time to learn everyone’s names! I got a chance to ask him some questions about the man behind the myth.
You’re a professional chef and also a metalhead. When did the light first go off in your head to put the two together?
The summer of 2001 - I was working as a pastry chef at a French bistro in Toronto, Canada. I was sick of being treated like I didn’t know anything because I had long hair and tattoos and smoke weed. I began freelancing sometime around late spring (circa May), but the first actual “Metal Chef” catered event took place on September 29, 2001 (in Toronto) for Six Feet Under, Lamb of God, Candiria, God Forbid and Darkest Hour - 35 people in total.
What’s your formal background as a chef? Are you schooled in any way?
I was formally trained working at various wine bars throughout southern Ontario and Toronto. I never wasted my time or money at culinary school.
What’s touring with a band like? Do your knives and pots go next to the drums in the van? How does finding a kitchen and groceries work?
Touring is always a different scenario, because often times I don’t really know the guys I’m riding with. They know who I am, and that they won’t be disappointed, but so far, there’s always been an asshole to deal with. When I tour as a Chef, I don’t travel in a passenger van. The band has to be traveling in either an RV or on a bus. RV’s have great kitchens (gas stove, convection / microwave oven) and a reasonably sized fridge & freezer for food & beer storage. So, finding a kitchen is never an issue. As for acquiring groceries, we just shop before the show at, you know, Safeway or wherever.
Do you have any food debauchery stories? Are any metal musicians finicky or refined eaters?
Food debauchery stories?? Well, not really aside from making weed cookies and brownies. And yes, I’ve had some encounters with finicky eaters while on tour. Some guys just don’t like curry, I don’t get it. I’ve seen dudes “refund” on their dinners because they drank too much.
You’ve catered for Cattle Decapitation, who are notorious for their vegetarian stance. Was it hard to cook for them?
It’s not hard to make vegetarian food taste good if you know what you’re doing. Always taste your food before you serve it, and if you think it tastes shitty, adjust the seasoning.
What’s the best metal to cook to? I’m hoping you’ll say Cannibal Corpse.
Any Slayer from ‘83 - ‘88, Iron Maiden’s “Killers”, Exodus, Krisiun.
Is your house always stocked, or do you sometimes have cereal for dinner like the rest of us? You must have the best leftovers.
I always try to maintain my kitchen supplies (spices, herbs, vinegars, salts, etc.). Being able to cook well is an important skill. I suppose that in most people’s eyes, even my “simplest” efforts would produce impressive results. And yes, the best leftovers, always.
www.metalchef.com